Continued from the October 2011 ASA E-Newsletter

Featured Charter Destination
An Easygoing Exploration of Biscayne Bay
By USCG/ASA Captains Margie and Harold Ochstein

On the southeast edge of Florida at the foot of the modern, vibrant city of Miami lies Biscayne Bay. Sailing down the bay is your entryway into Biscayne National Park and the Florida Keys, a 170-mile chain of islands stretching off to the south and southwest of mainland Florida. The calm, pristine waters of the bay are protected from the ocean by the coral reefs and the island chain beginning with Key Biscayne. These are a few of our favorite spots; but wherever you go, the water is clear, the wildlife is abundant and the pace is relaxed.

Key Biscayne
Your journey into Biscayne Bay begins once you pass under the MacArthur Causeway. The waterfront high-rises of Miami are close by on your right and Key Biscayne with its marinas and anchorages appears on your left. You can anchor off the west side of Key Biscayne for a comfortable night in the prevailing easterlies. At the south end of Key Biscayne you will find No Name Harbor located in Bill Baggs State Park.

This is a very popular spot for cruisers waiting to cross the Gulfstream to the Bahamas. During the day tie to the seawall, or anchor in the harbor overnight. Chat with sailors from around the world, invite them aboard for a sundowner and share your stories. After walking along the park's nature trails, take a tour of the working lighthouse built in 1825. Spend some time at the beach on the Atlantic Ocean side of the island, then stop for a drink or have dinner at the Boaters Grill.

Looking south into Biscayne Bay there is a great view of Stiltsville, a collection of homes built on stilts over the shallows located on the northern edge of Biscayne National Park. Sail past them through the well-marked Biscayne Channel leading to the Atlantic Ocean to get to Fowey Rocks, a good snorkel spot on the edge of the Gulfstream. For locations and descriptions of other reefs throughout the Keys, check http://divespots.com. If you do some trolling while you sail you just may catch dinner; but make sure you have a Florida fishing license and follow the size and species regulations.

Biscayne National Park
After visiting Fowey Rocks, sail back into the bay to continue south in Biscayne National Park. If you stay “inside” you will find that most of Biscayne Bay is less than 10 feet deep. These shallow depths and the protective islands eliminate big swells, even in higher winds. This is a formula for a wonderful sailing experience where you watch the bottom glide by in the clear waters while the consistent depth and wind direction allow for long tacks.

When the winds are light we can ghost along at less than 2 knots cooking an elaborate breakfast and watching dolphins, who come up to check out this big, slow moving stranger. While you won't see as much of the colorful coral that is out on the Atlantic, the swimming and snorkeling are great in the warm, clear waters of the bay. Make sure to put up a dive flag to let other boaters know that there are people in the water.

The charts for Biscayne Bay are very good and major channels are well marked--this is a great place to practice your navigating skills. Having a chart plotter or GPS on board is a nice backup to insure that your compass bearings and dead reckoning are correct. The bottom of the bay is generally sand and grass and in the clear water you can practice reading the water depth by its color, remembering “Brown, brown, run aground!”

After leaving Key Biscayne, Soldier Key will be the first island you see on your way south. There is a little used, protected anchorage on the west side of it. The unmarked channel requires an experienced helmsman and a rising tide to get in, but the solitude can be superb. From there, after passing the Ragged Keys you can follow the marked channel towards the beautiful stone tower on Boca Chita Key. Tie to the seawall in the small, charming harbor to access the island. There is a walking trail and a small beach with a picnic and camping area with restrooms. Further on is the first of the much larger keys in the Florida island chain. Elliot Key, which is several miles long and very thin, is a great island to anchor behind for the night. In the center of the key there is a harbor where you can bring in your dinghy. Along with the ranger station, there is an interpretive center and several long hiking trails, including one to a very remote beach. Mosquitoes can be fierce, so bring your bug spray!

Angelfish Creek
South of Elliot Key there is a small creek on the northern edge of Key Largo. This well-marked channel is 25 miles south of Biscayne Channel and next spot deep enough for sailboats to cross from bayside to the ocean. Inside Angelfish Creek there is great protection from waves, high winds and frontal passages. Remember the Bahamian Moor from your bareboat chartering class? The side channels are perfect for it. Once anchored you can take your dinghy for a little exploring in the mangrove creeks, floating with the current, watching for Snook, Manatees and Great White Herons. You have only scratched the surface of the Florida Keys, there is much more to explore, but that will have to wait for another day!

Sailing in the City
At the beginning or end of your trip to the Keys, don't ignore the unique urban lifestyle that is Miami. While on board your sailboat explore South Beach by docking at the Miami Beach Marina or anchor off Monument Island, lock your dinghy in the canal across from the Publix grocery store. Spend the afternoon at an outdoor cafe watching the beautiful people stroll by then have a gourmet dinner and party till dawn at the many trendy clubs in the area.

Take a temporary dock at Bayside in downtown Miami for 4 hours or overnight and watch the live music at the bandstand, eat at the many restaurants, or walk to the American Airlines Arena to see the Miami Heat play. On a calm night do a sunset cruise and watch the lights of the city come up. The colorfully lit bridges and buildings offer a unique panorama of the city. Enjoy the city lights at anchor on the south side of Fischer Island or in the basin behind the Miami Marine Stadium. As you sip your icy Mojito in the cockpit on your last night, you know you will be back here soon.

About the Author
Captains Margie and Harold Ochstein have lived aboard their sailboat for 10 years and have explored the Florida Keys for the last 30 years. They own Island Dreamer Sailing School and specialize in teaching couples about the cruising lifestyle while earning ASA certifications on liveaboard sailing trips from Miami to the Keys. In the summertime they each captain a sailboat in the Boy Scouts of America's Eco-Adventure program. Find out more at http://island-dreamer.com or email us at harold@island-dreamer.com